Best William Finnegan Books

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is William Finnegan’s story about growing up obsessed with surfing. It’s not just about catching waves—it’s about a whole way of life that’s demanding, addictive, and sometimes dangerous. Finnegan started young, learning to surf in California and Hawaii, and kept chasing waves into adulthood, traveling through places like Fiji, Australia, Indonesia, and Africa. Along the way, he mixes adventure with self-reflection, talking about friendships formed in the water, the culture around surfing, and how it all fit with the times—especially during the social changes of the 1960s and '70s. The book isn’t just about the thrill of surfing; Finnegan dives into the technical side of waves and the patience it takes to master them. He’s honest about his youthful recklessness—like taking LSD before surfing a massive wave in Maui—and the risks that came with his travels, from malaria scares to navigating shady markets. Still, surfing pulls him along, even when he’s juggling a career as a war reporter and later, family life. At its core, Barbarian Days is an old-fashioned adventure tale mixed with a thoughtful look at what it means to be hooked on something so completely. Finnegan’s writing captures both the beauty and the grind of surfing, making you feel like you’re right there with him—whether on a remote beach or paddling out into icy waves off Long Island.